Nothing to Breathe, Only Dust to Eat

Yak Ru Enduro race

Based on the feature in Australian Mountain Bike Magazine (Issue 182), Words and Photos by Kristina Vackova.

A Milestone at 4,000 Meters

In 2019, photographer Kristina Vackova embarked on what would become a career-defining journey: capturing the YakRu Enduro Race in the rugged Manang District of Nepal. This wasn’t just a photoshoot; it was a two-week immersion into hard conditions, high-altitude headaches, and the chaotic beauty of a country built on spirituality and grit.

Her exceptional work on this expedition earned her the prestigious AMB Photo Awards presented by Shimano Local Photographer of the Year.

The Reality of “Blind” Racing

The YakRu is legendary for its “blind” format. Racers drop into trails they have never seen before, located between 3,200 and 4,200 meters in altitude. Kristina documented the sheer determination required to navigate these natural singletrack routes, carved by generations of villagers and yaks.

“The motor certainly doesn’t help when you have to push or carry the bike 4000m above sea level,” Kristina noted, observing the “hike-a-bike” reality that even eMTBs struggled to conquer in the thin air.

Dust, Deities, and Dal Bhat

The story Kristina captured was as much about the culture as it was about the competition. Based in the beautiful village of Ngawal (3,600m), the crew lived in the shadow of Annapurna III. The conditions were brutal—sunsets at 3:45 PM led to freezing nights in rooms with no heating, where thick duvets and sleeping bags were the only sanctuary.

On the trails, the lack of rain meant clouds of dust so thick they were “unforgettable”. Yet, amidst the dust, there was magic:

The Spiritual Path: Riding alongside ancient prayer wheels and stones carved with mantras.
The Local Connection: Descending 50 kilometres of trails through historic villages with cheering locals.
The Yak Trophy: The tradition of the daily winner receiving a stuffed yak’s head to keep at their door for good luck.

The Lasting Impression

For Kristina and her team, the YakRu was more than a race; it was a “crazy experience” that challenged their perceptions of adventure. While the excess of plastic waste in the mountains was a sobering sight, the overwhelming memory remains one of a majestic landscape and a group of people united by a love for the trail.

Today, Kristina’s award-winning photos stand as a testament to the spirit of Himalayan racing—a spirit that Dawn Till Dusk continues to pioneer every single day.

1990: The Ride That Changed Everything.

The First MTB Expedition to Everest Base Camp

“They Said We Were Crazy”

“Absolute insanity.” That’s what they called it in 1990 when our founder, Chhimi Urkyen Gurung (then known to his Kiwi teammates as ‘Jimmi’), teamed up with two bold New Zealanders, Johnny Mulheron and Jonathan Kennett, to do the unthinkable: take mountain bikes to Everest Base Camp.

Long before carbon frames and hydraulic brakes, they battled 3,500m passes, “shoulder-scrunching” bike carries, and freezing snow. While others laughed or looked for petrol tanks on their “technical wonders,” Chhimi had one goal: to become the first Nepalese to bike to the roof of the world.

This isn’t just a story; it’s the DNA of Dawn Till Dusk. We don’t just ride trails; we help pioneer them.

first MTB expedition to Everest Base Camp

Read The Full Article originally published in ADVENTURE Magazine, Oct/Nov 1990 By Johnny Mulheron (Adapted for nepalbiking.com)

Bicycles ’n Icicles – The 1990 Everest Expedition

The “Desperately Insane” Ambition

In the late 80s, the idea of taking a bicycle to Mount Everest was considered “desperately insane.” But for two Kiwis and one “enthusiastic monomaniac” Nepalese biker named Jimmi (Chhimi) Gurung, it was the only reality worth pursuing.

The journey began with a gruelling 3,500m pass to ascend. Within days, the romantic notion of “riding” was replaced by the brutal reality of bike carrying. As Johnny Mulheron noted at the time, “These panniers were a mistake… shoulder-scrunching, spinal column distorting tasks were at hand.”

“Where are the Petrol Tanks?”

As the trio pedaled—and often carried—their way through the Khumbu, they became a traveling sensation. In every village, a welcome committee gathered, not for the riders, but for the “technical wonders” under them. The most common question from the locals? “Where are the petrol tanks?”

While most trekkers looked on with inevitable laughter and “they’re crazy” comments, Jimmi and his team were thriving. They discovered the hidden advantage of bikes in Asia: they were much harder for “local novice maniacs” to wreck than motorcycles, despite the occasional tampering with gear levers by curious onlookers.

The Road to the Roof

The expedition was a test of pure grit. The trip from Jiri to Base Camp took 17 days, crossing six major river systems and averaging 1,000 meters of climbing every single day. Equipment was primitive by today’s standards:

Johnny rode a 1990 Scott with Shimano Deore components.
Jonathan rode a “very second-hand” British-made Saracen.
Jimmi woke up one morning with a tooth cavity, which the team famously treated with “self-dentistry” using temporary filling material so the ride could continue toward Tibet.

A Legacy is Born

When they finally reached Kalapathar, with Everest looming in the background, the mission was accomplished. Chhimi Urkyen Gurung had achieved his aim: becoming the first Nepalese to bike to Everest Base Camp.

Today, at Dawn Till Dusk, we carry that same spirit into every tour. We still face the “icicles,” but we do it with the same passion that Chhimi showed back in 1990—proving that with enough heart, you can take a bicycle anywhere.

Facts & Figures from the 1990 Trek:

The Team: Johnny Mulheron (23), Jonathan Kennett (22), and Jimmi Gurung (23).
The Route: Jiri to Everest Base Camp (17 days).
The Gear: Cotton canvas panniers, Blackburn bottle cages, and thermal clothing supplied by Macpac.
The Maintenance: Roadside mechanics for $4 and DIY tooth repairs.